Ringed by forested hills and wrapped around a lake, Kandy is the cultural and spiritual heart of Sri Lanka — home to the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic and the island's greatest festival.
Kandy was the last royal capital of Sri Lanka's kings, holding out against colonial powers until 1815. Its palace and temple complex, lake and old town are protected together as the Sacred City of Kandy, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. For Buddhists around the world it is a place of pilgrimage; for every traveller it is the gateway to the hill country.
I have guided travellers through Kandy for more than fifteen years — from Korean Buddhist monks offering prayers at the Temple of the Tooth to naturalist groups searching the city's forest reserve for birds. Here is the Kandy I show my guests.
The places I make sure every guest sees, and when to see them.
01Sri Dalada Maligawa enshrines the most sacred relic in Sri Lankan Buddhism — a tooth of the Buddha — inside the old royal palace complex.
Tip Visit during an evening puja, when drums sound and the shrine room doors open.
02Built in 1807 by the last king of Kandy, the lake is edged by the scalloped white parapet known as the Walakulu Bemma, or Cloud Wall.
Tip Walk the lakeside in the early morning, before the traffic.
03A giant white Buddha statue on the hill above the city, visible from almost everywhere in Kandy and beautifully lit after dark.
Tip Go up near sunset for views over the city, then see it glow at night.
Peradeniya's gardens, just outside the city, with giant trees, an orchid house and great birdlife.
A forest reserve right behind the temple — a quiet walk and a favourite with my birding guests.
An evening of traditional drumming, dance and fire-walking in the city.
The story of Ceylon tea, in an old tea factory in the hills above Kandy.
The sacred tooth relic is said to have reached Sri Lanka in the 4th century CE, hidden in the hair of Princess Hemamala. For centuries whoever held it held the right to rule, so it moved with each royal capital until it came to rest here in Kandy.
The temple is still a living place of worship. Rituals are held daily at dawn, mid-morning and evening, with drummers in the courtyard and devotees bringing lotus flowers to the shrine. The octagonal Pattirippuwa tower, added by the last Kandyan king, is the image most visitors remember.
Every year around July and August, Kandy holds the Esala Perahera — ten nights of torch-lit processions honouring the Sacred Tooth Relic, with drummers, whip-crackers, fire dancers and richly decorated elephants.
Dates follow the lunar calendar and change each year, and hotels fill up months ahead. If you'd like to plan your trip around it, contact me early and I'll arrange good viewing places for the main processions.
Beyond the temple, Kandy is a city of green hills, colonial-era streets and hilltop temples with views across the central highlands.
Every group experiences Kandy differently — pilgrims come for the relic, naturalists for the forest, and families for the lake and culture.
Dressed in white for their visit to the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, on a seven-day Theravada pilgrimage.
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A stop at the Temple of the Tooth on a birding and wildlife tour of Sri Lanka.
Read the story →Yes. Kandy combines Sri Lanka's most important Buddhist temple, a UNESCO-listed old city, a lakeside setting and easy access to the hill country, so it fits naturally into almost every Sri Lanka itinerary.
Two nights is ideal: one full day for the Temple of the Tooth, the lake and a viewpoint, and time for the botanical gardens, a forest walk or a cultural show.
Wear white or modest, light clothing that covers your shoulders and knees. Shoes and hats are removed before entering, so sandals are easiest.
Kandy can be visited all year. January to April is usually the driest period, while July and August bring the Esala Perahera festival — the most spectacular, and busiest, time to visit.
The drive takes around 3–4 hours depending on traffic. The train from Colombo is slower but scenic. On my private tours, transport is arranged door to door.
Tell me your dates and interests, and I'll build Kandy into a private Sri Lanka itinerary around you.
Seven days through Sri Lanka's sacred cities, ending at the Temple of the Tooth.
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Why a full day gives you the best chance of a leopard.
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